French Onion Soup

This took WAY longer to make than I remembered. Leftover Corned Beef from the previous night's Reubens made an excellent substitute for Lardons. I burnt my mouth a little and I don't care (tant pis!).

Rye Bread with Caraway

A regular staple at the Float Camp last year.
This particular loaf became some very delicious Reuben Sandwiches.

Milkshakes at Pearl

"You don't put bourbon in it or anything?"
- Vincent Vega, Pulp Fiction

Ever wonder just exactly how Mia Wallace's Five-Dollar-Shake tasted?

I may have the answer.

First, let me say that this is by no means a comprehensive review of Pearl and, as good as their milkshakes may be, they certainly do a lot more than that. On this occasion however, it was the milkshakes that brought all the boys (and girl) to the yard.

After a hard day of being a gangster in LA moving house in Brisbane, circa Summer, one (actually, three of us) feels the need for cooling refreshment and rejuvenation. Nothing says Summer like a milkshake and we heard Pearl does the best this side of Inglewood.

Oozing incandescent wood-grain Parisian bistro trendiness, Pearl is not a place that screams 'Milkshake'. In fact, in a place like this, a milkshake might seem a sort of obligatorily compromising menu after-thought. Looks can be deceiving though and the frothy, dairy goodness has its own subsection on page one.

The milkshake is a simple concoction and pleasingly, Pearl keeps it that way. The varieties are classic favourites with a little gourmet touch, nothing outrageous or avant garde that would risk making the whole thing into a farce. The five choices are Strawberry Jam, Chocolate Ganache, Fresh Espresso, Homemade Butterscotch and Vanilla Bean, of which we opted for the latter three.

Screaming old-fashioned integrity in their colossal stainless steel cups and blue-striped paper straws, the shakes come to you straight from the mixer. The flavour is the first thing you notice and the little gourmet touch is evident. This is not the standard cheap ice-cream topping fare; the descriptive titles taste legit.
What really got me though was the texture. It seemed to increase in thickness and smoothness the more you drank. The first sip is quite thin and would suggest too high a milk to ice-cream ratio, but the more you drink, the more it seems to thicken. By the time you're at the bottom you almost need a spoon to get at what resembles freezing cold velvety latte foam.
I'm sure there's a reasonable physics based explanation for this but I don't really care. It's a magic milkshake, ok?

Now the caveat. Sorry, there is one. This milkshake is good, yes, and large also. But it's expensive. $7.50 expensive. It's the most expensive milkshake I've ever had. Maybe Pearl's reputation is what drives the price up but it's still kind of hard to justify. It's not the kind of thing you want to go having every day but definitely worth trying at least once./To paraphrase Vincent Vega one last time, "I don't know if it's worth seven and a half dollars, but it's pretty f***ing good."

Pearl Café

28 Logan Rd. 

Woolloongabba, Queensland

07 3392 3300

I'm still here

Sorry for the lack of posts. I blame a combination of months of travel, lack of reliable internet at home, long working hours and the overwhelming laziness and general indolence characteristic that I have in place of anything resembling a self-motivated work ethic.

But enough of that silliness. I'm back now, settled in a new place with a lovely high speed connection and no excuses for not writing (I finally caught up with Breaking Bad today so I'm really out of exciting procrastination material.)

 I visited some noteworthy places overseas, though I unfortunately did not take notes. I have some photos though and hopefully over the next little while the memories will come back like so much badly made espresso (seriously, Australia, you have it GOOD when it comes to coffee).

Jesse

Gratuitous Canadian Fast Food Porn. For shame.

The Famous MorEx Trip Lunch

Roast Chicken, Special Bean Salad, and whatever else the cook decides.
Delight of guests, bane of guides.
Some things never change, some things are bigger than us.

Best picnic in Gwaii Haanas.

www.moresbyexplorers.com

Italian Sausage & Courgette Carbonara

Courtesy one Mr. Jamie Oliver.

Mirka at Tolarno Hotel

While visiting friends in St. Kilda I had the opportunity to visit one of Guy Grossi's restaurants, Mirka at Tolarno Hotel. Currently serving up a special fixed-menu Sunday lunch of sneak-peak recipes from Grossi's upcoming cookbook 'Recipes from My Mother's Kitchen', a chance to eat at Mirka was not to be missed.

Mirka at Tolarno is the namesake of French-Australian artist Mirka Mora, who opened the location with her husband as a restaurant/gallery/studio called in the early 1960's. Grossi's father Pietro was one of the original chefs and it was in this kitchen where Guy spent the very earliest years of his cooking career. Having now taken over ownership of the restaurant, Grossi has revamped the building in it's original spirit as a restaurant and bar and planned gallery space. Mora's vibrant murals still adorn the dining room wall, making for a a very unique dining atmosphere.

As you can imagine, a traditional home-cooked Italian Sunday lunch is somewhat epic. The 'From my Mother's Kitchen' menu is certainly no different and would be challenging to get through if it didn't taste as good as it does. Our menu included Cauliflower and Gorgonzola soup, Chestnut and Mushroom Gnocchi, Carpaccio of White Fish, Calzone, Cassoulet, Roast Salmon with Letils, Tripe Sausage, Stewed Fruit, Rhubarb Pudding and the most amazing Honeycomb Semifreddo I've ever tasted. That's a LOT of food, even between four of us. We made an attempt on everything but there was a lot left over despite our best intentions.

For the most part the courses were top-notch; the soup was a stand out, perfectly balanced and with the cauliflower pureed just right to retain a bit of texture. Tripe sausage might not be everyone's cup of tea but all I can say is don't knock it until you try it. Besides, you're in very good hands here. Out of everything I probably ate the most of that. The desserts on the other hand were a little polarizing. It may have been that the semifreddo was so bloody good that it eclipsed everything else but the other two selections were a little lacking. The rhubarb pudding was boring and the stewed fruits didn't seem to be trying to be anything than stewed fruits (not that there's anything wrong with that). That semifreddo on the other hand, wow. It was like they got a cow on a massive sugar-high, let a bunch of bees sting it, milked it and chilled the cream. I could not get enough of the stuff. Total knock-out.

My only serious complaint (and this is something I see a lot of restaurants, no matter how good they are, tending to do consistently badly) was the coffee. We ordered a round of espresso at the end of the meal to finish off and after such a tidal wave of beautiful food I was so disappointed to find a thin, light, over-extracted shot of watery espresso in my cup. I don't understand why restaurants who take so much care selecting the best ingredients, wines, equipment etc. and doing the most with them don't seem to care about coffee. It's an odd experience drinking terrible espresso from a clearly custom made, Grossi crest emblazoned, porcelain demitasse. There are a few restaurants out there doing it the right way; sourcing their beans from local specialty roasters, using good equipment and training their staff properly, but for the most part I still see cheap equipment, bad technique and imported beans that are long stale by the time they reach our shores. I wouldn't suggest that all restaurants become specialty coffee merchants but as it stands, it's not good enough. Grossi is taking the time and care to brew his own beer (which is actually decent - very sharp and hoppy) but is still using a certain ubiquitous omnipresent imported Italian coffee that's just not up to scratch. And it's letting the food down.

Now that the rant is done, Mirka is definitely worth visiting, especially if you can book in for Sunday lunch and get a sneaky taste of some very good traditional Italian cuisine before it hits the bookstore shelves.

Mirka at Tolarno Hotel
42 Fitzroy St.St. Kilda, Victoria
03 9525 3088
www.mirkatolarnohotel.com

Brother Baba Budan

When I'm in Melbourne there's one cafe I make always try to get to at least once. Brother Baba Budan is the sister cafe to the highly rated Seven Seeds Roastery in Carlton so the beans on offer are top notch. However, I don't make it a must-do because their espresso is fantastic (it is) or because it's has one of the coolest cafe interiors ever (it does), but because in addition to that they have one of the small handful of Clover coffee machines in Australia.

Without boring you with too many details, the Clover is a rather expensive piece of kit that makes a brewed, french-press style coffee in a very controlled manner and delivers a much, much better tasting cup. The depth of flavour and characteristics the emerge from single-origin beans through the clover is unparalleled. It delivered a cup of coffee that is about the closest thing I've had in a cafe to what is achieved during cupping. It's so good actually that in 2008, after having tasted a Clover, Starbucks CEO Howard Schultz, bought the entire company and effectively took them off the market entirely (they only supply Starbucks now). Bastard.

Thankfully a few cafes had already bought Clovers and we get to enjoy the results with really good coffee. It's not advertised conspicuously so you kind of have to be in the know, but towards the back, above the bar-seating will be that day's single-origin Clover offering with some brief tasting notes. I won't harp on too much more about it, but absolutely positively try it, it's not like any coffee you've had before.

The usual range of espresso based drinks is available from the very capable baristas operating a Synesso Cyncra at the front of the shop and Seven Seeds coffee is available for retail along with a small but carefully chosen array of hand grinders, pour-overs and other modern DIY coffee paraphenalia.

With only a couple of tables at the front of the shop and a handful of seats along the bar at the side, Brother Baba Budan is a small space. Real estate agents would call it 'cosy', but it's an apt description. There is a very fine line along an odd clash of grimy (but not off putting - check out the carelessly trendy unrenovated walls behind the counter and low-rent cash register) and super chic (just look up for the cacophony of suspended wooden chairs and exposed lightbulbs) that Brother Baba Budan treads very carefully and very well. The place oozes coolness and homely warming comfort; if you manage to grab a seat you're likely not to leave for a while. A must-visit, add it to your list.

Brother Baba Budan
359 Little Bourke St.
Melbourne, Victoria
03 9606 0449
www.sevenseeds.com.au

Piaf

I'll confess straight up that Piaf has long been one of my all time favourite Brisbane dining institutions and probably the single restaurant I've visited most in the city. For years they've consistently served quality French food at prices at least a few dollars less than what you'd expect to be paying anywhere else. There's barely a thing on the menu over $20.


Smack-dab in the heart of Southbank's array of multi-cultural restaurants Piaf is, as far as I know, the only  French restaurant of the lot (if you don't include their off-shoot cocktails/tapas bar Sardine Tin - just across the lane). Despite having the market cornered they remain affordable, delicious and casual yet classy. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, seven days a week, there's always something on offer any time of day. Seating choices are plentiful too, with Piaf offering indoor, outdoor and casual bar-style seating to suit just about any mood or occasion (personally I prefer to do breakfast at the bar, lunch outside and dinner indoors, where you can sit beneath a minimalist wall mural of Edith Piaf's nick-namesake Sparrow and inexplicable motorcycle helmet - confusing but somehow it works).


The best thing about Piaf is the simplicity. A small but quality selection of exclusively French wines makes choosing very easy and the menu is broken down into fixed-price courses, each with only four or five options. It's a small choice but certainly not one I'd refer to as limited. I'm usually always stuck between at least two of the offerings, which change regularly. At least a couple of  variations on 'the big classics' of French cuisine are always available and I'm pleased to report that Piaf is not afraid to serve up some of the more challenging dishes; on my last visit delicious fried croquettes of lamb's brains with capers and a fantastic rich, smooth hollandaise derived sauce. Most of the menu is suitable for the less daring, however, such as the warm salad of confit-duck leg, wilted spinach, crispy roast potatoes, feta and macadamia nuts.


Though nice, instead of dessert I'd recommend trying one or two of the regional French cheeses available on the chalkboard. Again, the selection is small but wonderfully diverse and is served with classic accompaniments such as tart apple slices, fig paste and cornichons.


Stylish, a little sophisticated, slightly daring and undoubtedly French, Piaf is at the same time entirely relaxed, very simple and incredibly good value. Piaf does a service to the spirit of its namesake and remains one of my favourite places to eat in Brisbane.

Piaf
5/182 Grey St.
Southbank, Brisbane, Queensland
07 3846 5026
www.piafbistro.com.au

Rib Eye with Garlic & Rosemary Jus, Potatoes roasted in Duck Fat and Winter Salad

Was hoping for crispier potatoes, may have par-boiled them a little too long before roasting at too low a temperature (dodgy oven!).

The Tea Centre

Silver Needles

Depending on where you’re from, it may come as something of a surprise to you that Tea is the most widely consumed beverage on the planet (OK, excluding water which by composition makes up the majority of just about every other beverage anyway). Tea is drunk more than beer, milk, Coke, and even coffee.

What!? Tea is more consumed than coffee? But there are coffee shops everywhere! Who ever heard of a Teaccino?*
*copyright, copyright, copyright.

To be honest, this is somewhat similar to finding out that the most common name in the world is Mohammed. Statistically, it is. There are more people named Mohammed (or its variant spellings) than there is anyone else; just not here. We don’t know about it because it’s not popular in our culture. So it goes with tea. The coffee culture in Australia is massive. There are coffee shops everywhere. Luckily for us, our interest is so developed that there is a thriving specialty coffee scene here too. We aren’t restricted to the abominable factory-line, lowest common denominator, stale, tepid slop they serve up at Starbucks or Gloria Jeans or McCafe. We have options. There is some really good coffee out there made by people who don’t just make it for the money.

But what of Tea? It might not be as popular as coffee here but it’s still ubiquitous. You can get it at just about any of those same coffee shops. You and everyone you know probably have a pack of Twinings tea bags in the back of the cupboard. Right next to that nasty jar of Blend 43. See my point?

So while specialty tea rooms and retailers may not be nearly as prevalent as cafes, they do exist.
Located in the Albert Lane development off of the Queen St. Mall in Brisbane is one of The Tea Centre’s three Tea Rooms (the others are in Sydney and Southport) where, unlike some other specialty tea retailers, you can actually sit down and enjoy a cup of it.

All decked out with glass walls and wooden floors & shelves, The Tea Centre is a nice, warm feeling place that strikes just the right balance between hipster-chic and Grandma-cosiness. In between the multi-level seating, the shelves are packed from floor to ceiling with a plethora of tea pots, cosies, strainers, cups, scoops, spoons, books and of course hundreds of jars of tea, including some beautifully wrapped bundles of tea leaves that blossom into flower like shapes as they infuse in the pot. It’s like being in the best smelling antique store in the world, except that everything is brand new and beautiful. Taking that in to mind, I should point out that the clientele was almost exclusively trendy young females. Guys, if your girlfriend goes to craft markets or reads Frankie magazine you should probably take her here as soon as possible (Tea Centre? More like Twee Centre amiright?)

On offer are varying sizes of pots of any of their stocked teas and a small selection of sweet cakes and slices. We ordered a small pot of the Ginger Bread blend (black tea with caramel, almond, cinnamon and ginger brittle). The Tea Centre prides itself on not using any artificial flavours or preservatives and judging by the variety of variously shapes and colours in the pot, I’m fairly confident that all of those extra things in there were the real deal. It certainly tasted like of those things, which is to say fairly nice and Christmas-y. However, I was more interested in something a little more pure. Having never tried White Tea (that doesn’t mean “with milk” by the way, it’s a type of tea) before, I decided I should go straight to the top and ordered one of the “Premium Pots” called Silver Needles. This stuff is very rare, apparently only picked on 2 days per year and retails (in store!) for about $2000 per kilo. You can try it a whole lot cheaper however, with the Premium Pots filling about two cups and going for $12 each. I suppose the best way to describe it is to imagine the difference between black tea and green tea, then magnify that by an order of magnitude on top of the green tea. It was very light, fresh and grassy with an almost pastoral aroma reminiscent of cut grass and hay. I’m not sure I’d go around ordering pots of it for $12 but it was certainly something different and curious.

Along with our tea we ordered a peanut butter and chocolate brownie that was definitely presented extremely well (with a dusting of cocoa and dried rose petals adorning the plate) but failed to impress once in the mouth, coming off pretty dry and uninteresting.

My only other gripe with The Tea Centre is that for somewhere so specialized, the staff didn’t seem particularly knowledgeable about the tea itself. If they were, they didn’t go out of their way to show it. There wasn’t a lot of information forthcoming about the different types of tea beyond what was written down on our menus, but this might be a little too much to ask too early. If there is a budding specialty tea culture in Australia, it might need a little more development before we can expect passionate staff.

The tea itself is impressive though and not just by sheer quantity and variety. It tastes good and importantly, it tastes different. You’re going to experience a much higher quality product you can’t get in a super market and it’s a pleasure to sit there and sip it. I’ll be back not just because it’s good but because it’s an experience apart from the routine cup of coffee (delicious as that may be) you can get so many other places. Try it; you’ll probably end up taking some home. 

The Tea Centre
Albert Lane, Albert St/Queen St 
Brisbane, Queensland
07 3211 3856
www.theteacentre.com.au

Erin's Birthday Pancakes

She couldn't finish it all, but she wanted to. Job well done.

Angus Beef Sausages, Sweet Potato & Maple Mash, Grilled Tomato and Asparagus

Had to add a surprisingly lot of maple syrup to get it to come through the natural sweetness of the potato. Steamed the asparagus before tossing it through the hot rendered fat from the sausages; beautiful texture but I'd add a little pepper next time.